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AIR2-CT94-0981
Cultivation and Extraction of Natural Dyes for Industrial Use in Natural Textiles Production |
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Contract No | AIR2-CT94-0981 |
| Total Cost | 928 681 | |
| EC Contribution | 702 029 | |
| Start Date | 01/07/1994 | |
| Duration | 36 months |
SUMMARY
Many plants produce stable coloration or pigments which have been used as dyes in the past. Their use decreased as organic dyes based on coal and other fossil feedstock became available at lower cost. This project is looking at the feasibility of reversing this trend and providing high quality natural dyes from plants, creating new opportunities for both farmers (as growers) and the fabric industry - in line with the current consumer trends towards natural products. The group has investigated four possibilities in detail, madder for red and woad for blue, as well as weld and golden rod for yellow. In addition, a wide range of other species have been looked at. Most gave good dyeing performance when judged by German and internationally-accepted standard tests. However, problems remain to be solved in production of planting material, yield and (in the case of indigo) competition against low cost imports. The work continues under the original AIR funding.
OBJECTIVE
Up to now natural dyes have been neglected as renewable resources for agriculture although there is an increasing demand for environmentally friendly textiles produced from natural fibres (wool, silk, cotton, linen etc.) and natural dyes. The aim of the project is to carry out research to find out how natural dyes, cultivated in Europe, can be produced and used with economically sustainable and efficient processes. Modern cultivation systems will be developed for the most important natural dyes, woad (lsatis tinctoria), madder (Rubia tinctorum) weld (Rseda luteola) and golden rod (Solidago ssp.) which deliver the rare and important colours blue, red and yellow.
Experimental trials carried out from the first partner in England and from the second partner in Germany will find out the best conditions for the growing of dye plants in regard to soil and climatic factors. The two partners will develop modern cultivation systems for getting maximal dye yields including optimal seeding and harvesting time, optimal fertilisation of plants, efficient weed control and safe preservation procedures. Plant material harvested from field trial will require preparation for use in dyeing. The utilizable parts of the plants will have to be subject to specific dehydration processes or have the dyestuff extracted, or possibly both, to make them usable in dyeing and possible to store. The third partner, a dye-house in Germany, will be using the plant extracts made by the project partners. The essential parameters for the dyeing procedures have to be examined. The addition of the dyes and of dyeing auxillaries will have to be optimized and to be adapted for the different fibres according to the required technical and environmental standards. An environmental dyeing process requires also an adequate treatment and for the utilization of all residual material. The aim is to establish an effective recycling system for all remainders.
Contacts
Coordinator
EC Scientific Officer
Participant
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